Clockwise from top left: Catherine Deneuve holds a Louis Vuitton handbag made in collaboration with Jeff Koons; French First Lady Brigitte Macron, in a look designed by Ghesquire, at a state dinner in Copenhagen, Denmark; Macron at the Fall 2016 Louis Vuitton show; Jaden and Willow Smith outside the Fall 2019 show. Ghesquire was raised in Loudon, a sleepy town in western France, south of the Loire Valley. Vuitton rebuilt immediately, erecting a new shop at 1 Rue Scribe, next to a prestigious jockey club in the heart of Paris. In 2001, the same year that Ghesquire was named Womenswear Designer of the Year by the CFDA, the Gucci Group bought Balenciaga, a move that Ghesquire welcomed. Before people watched fashion shows, but now, everyone has an opinion about fashion. He was the founder of the Louis Vuitton brand of leather goods now owned by LVMH. Louis Vuitton's creative director Nicolas Ghesquire takes us through his career in fashion design. With the help of his father, Ghesquire put together a portfolio of drawings and sent it, along with a letter introducing himself, to several designers. The people shaping the global fashion industry, curated by the editors of The Business of Fashion, based on nominations and on-the-ground intelligence from around the world. In 1889, he was given a grand prize and a gold medal at the same event, Exposition Universelle. HIDE Louis Vuittons artistic director of womens collections Nicolas Ghesquire in his Paris office. You know that when something is so iconic, it is as though it belongs to everyone. I've always said I'm looking at vintage clothes. Ghesquire garnered several awards and honours for his design acumen, including the 2001 International Designer award from the Council of Fashion Designers of America. He drew praise for the collection, in which he used such rich fabrics as crocodile, brushed shetland wool, and printed moleskin for his short A-line skirts, boxy jackets, high-waisted pants, and cropped sweaters. The elite class Parisians were attracted to LouisVuittons latest creation and his brand sustained a position as offering luxurious and quality trunks. In 1854, at age 33, Vuitton married 16-year-old Clemence-Emilie Parriaux. The beauty of Jennifer Connelly is something that touches me in a way that I have rarely been touched., Ghesquires work at Vuitton has not revolved just around actors and artists. At first, it was such a delight to get to know Louis Vuitton, to meet the teams, to start to understand the spirit and the history, Ghesquire explains. There were people who were happy to see that I still had a voice, that I was starting a new story. Ghesquire was born in northern France but was raised in Loudun, in the western part of the country. In 1872, Vuitton introduced a new line, featuring beige monogrammed designs with a red stripe that would remain a signature of his brand long after he died in 1892 due to a severe and aggressive cancer in his brain (glioblastoma). When news broke that Marc Jacobs would be leaving his post as creative director at Louis Vuitton, the fashion world was shocked. Vuittons stepmother was harsh, wicked and severe just like the one seen in Cindrella. In 2006, he was among the TIME 100 Most Influential People. She did this film, Earthquake Bird, for Netflix, where she spoke impeccable Japanese, though she had never spoken the language before. He was the founder of the Louis Vuitton brand of leather goods now owned by LVMH. A year later Louis Vuitton announced that Ghesquire would replace the departing Marc Jacobs as artistic director of its womens collection. At 14, he assumed an internship with French designer agns b,[3] for which he was paid in clothes. It was an international show which Napolean organized in Paris and it further accelerated Vuittons work popularity. That is the fun of itto see personal takes on this monogram that is known all over the world., The designer believes that, particularly in recent years, fashion has become an element of pop culture. However, even though the Balenciaga archives are stored in Ghesquire's atelier, he was only able to gain entry to the locked room by special appointment with an off-site custodian. But whenever I see her, at first I am always intimidatedfor me, she represents the ultimate vision of a certain kind of woman. He was not only a businessman, but a designer as well. Prior to joining Vuitton, Ghesquire spent a total of 15 years at Balenciaga, a once ailing womenswear house which he transformed into one of the most forward-thinking luxury brands in the world (and the most exclusive and sought-after ticket at Paris Fashion Week) with his complex vision, sculptural tailoring and use of ultra-modern fabrics. (The label's founder, Cristbal Balenciaga, died in 1972.) What are the fabrics? He went out to his country house, in Montfort lAmaury, west of Paris, with Marie-Amlie Sauv, the stylist he has worked with for more than two decades; Julien Dossena, the designer who worked at Balenciaga and is now the artistic director of Paco Rabanne; and Ghesquires two glossy black Labradors, Achille and Lon. Pharrell Williamss Louis Vuitton Mens Debut Was a Star-Packed Celebration, Rihanna Is a Mom on the Go in Latest Louis Vuitton Campaign, By subscribing to this BDG newsletter, you agree to our. He has additionally cited actress Charlotte Gainsbourg as an influence during his time at the company. Photographed by Charles Frger; Styled by Marie-Amlie Sauv. Our editors will review what youve submitted and determine whether to revise the article. Even though we had known each other for several years, this was a moment that brought us closer together., Ghesquire also has a special friendship with Jennifer Connelly, whom he has known for almost 20 years. This collection was very Biba, Swinging London, Ghesquire explains. [34] Ghesquire was described as "fashion's most sought-after and influential figure" by American Vogue and was also cited as the International Designer of the Year in 2014 by the British Fashion Awards. This season, Ghesquire brought to life this clashing of times. As a backdrop to the runway show in March, a chorus of 200 singers wore historical outfits dating from the 15th century to the 1950s. Ghesquire came into contact with Sophie through a friend and musical collaborator, Woodkid (one of her tracks had been used in the show at the TWA terminal, and she came to New York to see the show). Specializing in packing fashions. From assisting Jean Paul Gaultier to creative directing at Louis Vuitton, Nicolas breaks down creative directing at Balenciaga, winning a CFDA for Womenswear Designer of the Year, creating The Lariat (Balenciaga's 'It' bag), designing Jennifer Connelly's 2002 Oscar dress, and much more.Still havent subscribed to Vanity Fair on YouTube? At the age of ten, his mother died and father remarried soon. It took him two years to reach the capital of France. "It is a happy relationship," Ghesquire said. Vuitton belonged to a laboring-class family and his ancestors were milliners, farmers, carpenters and joiners unlike him. This wonderful opportunity became a doorway to success for Vuitton and he received assignments from royal and elite clientele throughout his life. Backed by the financial might of Louis Vuittonwith its 23,000 employees, 460 boutiques, and over $10 billion in annual salesGhesquire has also turned himself into a consummate showman, staging stirring fashion spectacles featuring some of the most high-voltage front-row attendees around, many of whom are also his good friends. Today is a new day. I came out, and there was an ovation from 1,200 people, he remembers. His next apprenticeship was with Corinne Cobson. She was previously employed by Standard Encyclopaedia Britannica's editors oversee subject areas in which they have extensive knowledge, whether from years of experience gained by working on that content or via study for an advanced degree. Right now, I also find the aesthetics of gender very interesting, he explains, everything that is nonbinary, genderless. It was either very high society or for people who were quite marginal. At Balenciaga, I learned about rigor. Out came the designers new approach for the house: tailored leather coats over short knit dresses, and a tiny new Vuitton trunk, the Petite Malle bag. Models: Michelle Laff at Next Model Management, Ashley Radjarame at IMG, Mariam De Vinzelle at DNA, Metta Irebe at Women Management Paris, Oudey Egone at OUI Management, Judith Frament and Masha Skokova at Elite; casting by Michelle Lee at Michelle Lee Casting; set design by Sophear at Art+Commerce. He spent the next 15 years turning Balenciaga into a force. Soon after, he left Marechal's shop and opened his own trunk making and packing workshop in Paris. In 1852, LouisVuitton benefited a lot from the restoration of the French Kingdom under the rule of Napolean III. Nicolas Ghesquire, (born May 9, 1971, Comines, France), French fashion designer who, as creative director of Balenciaga (1997-2012) and as artistic director of Louis Vuitton (2013-), earned a reputation as the most original designer of his generation. Clockwise from top left: Spring 2016: The designer described the collection as stylistic role-playing game, with reference points including Wong Kar-wais 2046, the anime series Neon Genesis Evangelion, the video game Minecraft, and Tron: Legacy. In November 2012 Ghesquire and Balenciaga abruptly parted ways amid rumours of discord. ", Nicolas Ghesquire Innovates at the Legendary House of Louis Vuitton, The story of NICOLAS GHESQUIRE and how BALENCIAGA became 21st Century Fashion, "The story of NICOLAS GHESQUIRE and how BALENCIAGA became 21st Century Fashion", Ghesquire's girls: Models are beautiful women and above all just women', Louis Vuitton names Ghesquiere as creative director for womenswear, PPR's Balenciaga loses artistic head Ghesquiere, Nicolas Ghesquire Dresses Jennifer Connelly in Custom Vuitton, "All Eyes on Nicolas Ghesquire's Debut at Louis Vuitton", Louis Vuitton and Nicolas Ghesquire Renew Contract, Louis Vuitton designer Ghesquiere signs new contract, Louis Vuitton CEO says Nicolas Ghesquires contract will be renewed, A night at the museum: Louis Vuitton goes to the Louvre, Louis Vuitton Comes to Monaco, Celebrities in Tow, Vuitton lands in Palm Springs in Bob Hopes spaceship house, Louis Vuitton Hosts Cruise 2018 Show in Kyoto, Japan, Louis Vuitton to Stage Cruise Show at Fondation Maeght, "League of Legends debuts True Damage, Louis Vuitton Prestige skins for World Championship", Pelayo Daz y Nicolas Ghesquire han roto, Hearst heiress sells Lautners famous Wolff House to Louis Vuittons director for $11 million, https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Nicolas_Ghesquire&oldid=1155193296, BLP articles lacking sources from August 2022, Articles with unsourced statements from April 2018, Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License 4.0, This page was last edited on 17 May 2023, at 03:07. [10], While working as the label's creative director, Ghesquire continued to design two Italian collections Trussardi, then Callaghan until 2001. Amy McKenna is a senior editor, primarily focused on geography and history matters pertaining to sub-Saharan Africa. Growing up in France's relatively remote Loire Valley, Mr. Ghesquire, 51 . Two years later, Vuitton got married to Clemence-Emilie Parriaux. Singing a special version of Its Okay to Cry, she was topless with a shock of wavy red hair. Spring 2016: The show, which explored a dialogue between technology and nature, opened with a series of embroidered kilt skirts. One of his most visible clients has been French First Lady Brigitte Macron. This was the idea with Brigitte. Shes like a total tomboy but also incredibly Parisian. The last time they had lunch together, at the beginning of the year, they went to the Louvre to see the major Leonardo da Vinci exhibition. Marc Piasecki/WireImage/Getty Images; Ludovic Marin/AFP/Getty Images; Rindoff/Le Segretain/Getty Images; Marc Piasecki/WireImage/Getty Images. She is an Oscar-winning actress because she is so methodical, but there is also this sense of fantasy, a lightness. There is an impressive number of leading American and European actresses who regularly represent Ghesquires image of Vuitton: Emma Stone, Michelle Williams, Chlo Grace Moretz, Ruth Negga, Sienna Miller, and Sophie Turner. Above all, immense joy at being here, in the knowledge that my stylistic expression is at one with the Louis Vuitton philosophy. With his commitment, aesthetic sense and business skills, Vuitton kept on working until his death in 1892. He has presented major shows in the belly of the Frank Gehrydesigned Fondation Louis Vuitton in Paris, up and down the modernist staircases of Eero Saarinens TWA terminal at JFK Airport in New York, and along a seemingly endless runway at the I.M. The new design was loved and the demand increased for these convenient and innovative trunks so much that Vuitton expanded his workshop and business in Paris. He knew from the time he was very young that he wanted to be a designer. [19] During that time, he assembled one of the largest production teams in Paris with upwards of 30 people in the design studio and 50 in the fabrication ateliers. There were very few people, and we went to see it, just the two of us. Many of his tools were stolen and his staff were gone. He worked from 1990 to 1992 as an assistant to designer Peidesigned Miho Museum, outside Kyoto, Ghesquire, who is passionate about the culture of Japan, incorporated Japanese references and bags designed in collaboration with Kansai Yamamoto. Updates? My view is that we have to keep workingwe have to try to exist with the virus, under conditions of maximum safety, of course. The show, a manifesto for Ghesquires approach to chronological sampling, would have closely preceded About Time: Fashion and Duration, an exhibition at the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art that Ghesquire was co-chairing, which ended up opening this October, nearly six months later than expected. This was a highly respectable craft in nineteenth century Europe. Words cannot express exactly how I am feeling at this momentAbove all, immense joy., Ghesquire, a very youthful 49, is sitting in his spare white office at the Vuitton headquarters on the rue du Pont Neuf. Singers are becoming designers; stars are doing fragrances; everyone wants to be a designer now. Vuitton is all about an urban woman who is not afraid of mixing periodsshes neither vintage nor futuristic, but both.. He sent out crinoline skirts paired with high-tech tops and bejeweled bolero jackets worn with parachute pants in front of a soaring backdrop that held a 200-person choir, clad in costumes spanning the 15th century to the 1950s. [10] Callaghan's Spring 2001 Ready-to-Wear show was the first ever in New York for the then 35-year-old fashion house, and also served as the US debut for Ghesquire. He decided afterward that fashion was difficult and returned home to finish his schooling. Nadya Masidlover and Christina Passariello (4 November 2013). I salute the work of Marc Jacobs, whose legacy I wholeheartedly hope to honour. And once I understood that, it was clear it was going to be my life., Copyright 2023 Dow Jones & Company, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Jean-Paul Gaultier Produced by: Michal Lacomblez at Louis2; Production Manager: Yuk-Emmanuelle Kaij A Kamb at Louis2; Photo Assistant: Zo Chauvet; Fashion Assistants: Fanny Ourevitch, Kiana Perau, Abby Adler; Production Assistant: Julien Carvalho; Hair Assistant: Michael Thanh bui; Makeup Assistant: Aya Murai; Set Assistant: Alexis Mounoury; Tailor: Carole Savaton at Atelier-on-Set. Ghesquire was born in northern France but was raised in Loudun, in the western part of the country. And we asked ourselves: What is the silhouette? Marc Jacobs We share common values and a vision. Cave & Sons of London, Vuitton introduced his revolutionary rectangular canvas trunks at a time when the market had only rounded-top leather trunks. In the past, fashion was for weirdos, he says. This was a highly respectable craft in nineteenth century Europe. Yes, it can be tough and very competitive. Nicolas Ghesquire Turned the Louis Vuitton Runway Into a Theater. This summer, during quarantine, Cardi B photographed herself wearing an LV-monogram miniskirt, matching crop top, and a long, wide ponytail that she had printed with the houses famous logo. Things later soured with Gucci Groups owners PPR (now Kering) and, in November 2012, Ghesquire and PPR parted ways in what was an acrimonious separation. "It has worked because they wanted me to explain what I wanted to do with Balenciaga, not the other way around." Without specifying what their plans were, she said that she was going to need some support, the designer recalls. Hed watch fashion programs on TV, special-order magazines with his mother and customize friends clothes. Ghesquire was born in Comines, Nord, the younger of two sons of a Francophone Belgian golf-course owner and manager in the 7,500-inhabitant Poitevine town of Loudun and a French mother, who enjoyed fashion. All lock patterns were safely kept at Vuitton's workrooms and registered with the owner's name in case another key was needed. [citation needed], In his twenties, Ghesquire was in a seven-year relationship with Pierre Hardy. Nicolas Ghesquire, (born May 9, 1971, Comines, France), French fashion designer who, as creative director of Balenciaga (19972012) and as artistic director of Louis Vuitton (2013), earned a reputation as the most original designer of his generation. You know how so many grandes dames have a presence that is very assertive and recognizable? ", 1997 - 2012, 1990 - 1992, Former Chief Executive, Gucci; Board Member, Dolce and Gabbana. ( 1971-05-09) 9 May 1971 (age 51) Comines, Nord-Pas de Calais, France. In 1997, at the young age of 25, Ghesquire was the surprise choice to head Balenciaga,[8] promoted to creative director of Balenciaga after his Dutch predecessor Josephus Thimister was fired following a highly unsuccessful show. Jacobs will forever remain known for his . 87990cbe856818d5eddac44c7b1cdeb8, Continue reading your article witha WSJ subscription, Already a subscriber? He then worked at Ples, designing their knitwear line followed by a series of assignments with different companies including the Italian house of Callaghan. However, Vuittons shop was destroyed and looted between 1870 and 71. our Subscriber Agreement and by copyright law. Ghesquire's collections have had a considerable commercial impact, particularly through his influence on other designers, including his former staff members Julien Dossena, Camille Miceli, and Natacha Ramsay-Levi. While every effort has been made to follow citation style rules, there may be some discrepancies. In the early 1990s he began working as an assistant to renowned French fashion designer Jean Paul Gaultier. Along the way to the city from his hometown Anchay, Vuitton did several unusual jobs to gather enough money for his food. His son carried on his fathers tradition by introducing innovative designs of trunks to the market. Louis Vuitton ( French: [lwi vit] ( listen); 4 August 1821 - 27 February 1892) [1] was a French fashion designer and businessman. He garnered his first in a series of fashion internships at the age of 15, with a brief stint at Agns B., which was followed by a lengthier stay with Corinne Cobson. Arriving in 1837, in the middle of the Industrial Revolution, he apprenticed under Monsieur Marechal, a successful trunk maker and packer. In 2013, after a bumpy exit from Balenciaga and a full year off from fashion, Ghesquire was snapped up by Bernard Arnault to replace Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton. The designer takes us through his favorite moments from his tenure at the storied French house, from his first collection to the latest resort pieces. That's how Louis Vuitton women's artistic director Nicolas Ghesquire describes his fashion-industry peers. She is a great partner., One of the most high-profile French actresses to represent Vuitton has been La Seydoux: She is one of those women who can represent many different eras, in the way they carry themselves, in their intelligence, even in their look, Ghesquire says. Thanks to Ghesquire, Balenciaga was acquired by Tom Ford, Domenico De Sole, and the Gucci Group, then overtaken by Franois Pinault. MR. This happened while the Franco-Prussian War was in progress and once it ended, Vuitton re-established his workshop in an upper-class area in Paris. I think this has really worked for Brigitte, Ghesquire continues, how, with just a quick glance, you are able to tell immediately that it is her., The very first Nicolas Ghesquire show for Louis Vuitton was held at the Cour Carre of the Louvre, on March 5, 2014. After internships at Agns B. and Corinne Cobson, he moved to Paris when he was just 18, to start working at Jean Paul Gaultier. "[3] In 1858, inspired by H.J. [4], https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Louis_Vuitton_(designer)&oldid=1155533898, This page was last edited on 18 May 2023, at 15:34. At 14, he got an internship with French designer Agns Bfor which he was paid in clothes. This is how I work. [17] At the same time, he launched the careers of several models, including Kirstin Liljegren. Growing up in Frances relatively remote Loire Valley, Mr. Ghesquire, 51, dreamed of being one such weirdo. In these turbulent times, Nicolas Ghesquires unique ability to take us on a multicentury time travel, forwards and backwards, is precisely what is needed, says Michael Burke, Vuittons chairman and CEO. After the reestablishment of the French Empire under Napoleon III, Vuitton was hired as a personal trunk maker and packer for the Empress of The French. Learn more about Artistic Director of Women's collections, Nicolas Ghesquire. I really like the idea of going to fashion icons, people who are symbolic of the pop side of fashion. Thanks to all of you who have helped me to tell this new story and who make Louis Vuitton what it is, and especially to those who work with me. In Paris, Vuitton in his teenage years worked as a trainee in Monsieur Marechal 's workshop of box making and packing. [5] He diligently did internships during his school holidays. It is a happy relationship, he said at the time. [6] He went on to work at Ples, designing its knitwear line followed by a series of inauspicious assignments with different companies, including the Italian house of Callaghan. And the look of Sophie in her video is completely Biba-esque. Louis Vuitton VIA: Digital Treasure Trunk, Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives. Staged at the Louvre Museum, this collection combined opulent frock coats with pared-down streetwear. And though it was a suitably dramatic conclusion to Paris Fashion Week, it also might be the last show of its kind for some time. Before establishing this world famous company, he use to make trunks for Napoleons wife. Ghesquire held, as he then described it, "what many would call the worst position in fashion," designing suits and funeral clothes under a Balenciaga licence for Japan. From the moment I arrived, my mission has been to create a very recognizable wardrobe and a vision for the Vuitton woman. Two Peeks, "Is Copying Really a Part of the Creative Process? She first approached the designer in 2015, a year before the beginning of the presidential campaign, telling him that she was going to be in the public eye. 2023-06-25 02:55:56pm. Ghesquire's was believed to have been appointed to re-energise and re-elevate Louis Vuittons fashion offering, restoring the brand's high luxury cachet, which had suffered in recent seasons a task he has largely succeeded in. For non-personal use or to order multiple copies, please contact At the time, the city was surrounded by the different effects of the industrial revolution some were good like rapid development of the city, and some were as bad as a distressing plague and dismal poverty. Taking odd jobs along the way, Vuitton traveled approximately 292 miles (470km) to Paris. In 2007 he was made a Chevalier de lOrdre des Arts et des Lettres, and in December 2014 the British Fashion Awards named him International Designer of the Year. After a few years he left that position and began to freelance. He is passionate about many who have become brand ambassadors for the house. Spring 2018: Might it be possible to awaken the clothes of long-gone eras and infuse them with the spirit of today? the designer asked. Dominique Charriau/WireImage/Getty Images; Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images; Mac B Productions; Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images. So I found it interesting to have the voice as well as the image, because she is an artist and such a strong aesthetic symbol.. https://www.wsj.com/articles/louis-vuitton-nicolas-ghesquiere-interview-on-his-secret-sauce-11666291731, .css-11kxzt3-Strong{font-weight:var(--font-weight-medium);}THEYRE VERY NICE, inspiring weirdos. Thats how Louis Vuitton womens artistic director Nicolas Ghesquire describes his fashion-industry peers. Born. During his 16-year tenure at the brand, the designer was responsible for a whole new Vuitton aesthetic, which skyrocketed handbag sales for the House. It was the start of his 15-year run at Balenciaga and the beginning of his meteoric rise in the fashion world. In a few years, Vuitton became one of the best practitioners of this new skill among the fashion lovers of Paris. Today the Louis Vuitton brand offers additional things than just trunks, including leather accessories and fashion goods, like bags, shoes, sunglasses and much more. [16] In November 2012, PPR announced his departure from Balenciaga. Nicolas Ghesquire. [37], In 2022, Ghesquire acquired John Lautners Wolff House for $11 million from Amanda Hearst in an off-market deal.[38]. By the age of 12, Nicolas was sketching dress designs in his school books, making dresses out of his mother's curtains, and designing earrings out of his grandmother's chandelier crystals.